Day 11 – 2nd December . A Long Day.

Esquel – Perito Moreno 545 kms (325 Track)

Total Distance So Far: 2,701 kms

By rights I should be crashed out, It's now 1am and it's taken 14 hours to cover the 545 kms today. It's strange but I am wide awake. It's been a long day, but a fabulous one. It started by seeing a steam train, it was a surprise as I thought they were all gone, but my guide book tells me the oldest running steam trains still run in Patagonia, with the engines dating back to 1922. Their track is narrow so they continue to buy old steam trains from around the world.

The day started off well, and the first 200 kms were breeze, giving me impressive views of the Andes to my left. The mountains seemed to rise like a shear wall out of the Patagonian steppe. I passed my supposed hotel in Gabendor Costa. It had shut, and the 4 huts were up for sale. (Dave if you are planning worldwide expansion there is a requirement over here. Perhaps with Marina’s local knowledge you'll have a head start). The next 200 kms were very challenging, a bit more than I had expected to be honest. The road to Rio Majo, was powdery stony track. It was generally fine when going in a straight line but much trickier round the corners having just no grip. Although when the wind came unexpectedly it could litrally send you from one side of track to the other. Dry mud would have been preferable to get more grip. Sometimes the stony powder was only 1-2 inches thick on the straights, but up to 12 inches think on the corners where it all seems to get pushed up. If the front wheel got caught up in this it just tended to skid sidewards. Tricky at first as you could not brake on it but once you got the hang of it it was good fun, and quite controllable. The only downside was the speed suffered. I had expected to average 50-60 kph incl. stops, but that came right down to 30-35 kph with drink and photo stops. It therefore took 7 hours to cover to distance to Rio Majo (my fuel stop).

The wind became very manageable after a while, just a bit tiring, as you got a few tell-tale gusts just before a long continuous burst which lasted from 1 to 5 minutes before easing off again. This gave me time to prepare. There were times though where I went along leaning about 15 degrees into the wind but going straight. A weird feeling. On one corner I lent right into the wind but turned left! It was strange to see even large trees growing sideways.

Rio Majo was a dusty town of a few stony unsurfaced roads, full of cars and trucks dating back to another era. Quite the reason why anyone would want to live there beats me. There is a surfaced road to the east which is how I guess most people, and fuel and supplies get in and out of the town.

The last leg to Perito Moreno was very special. I left at about 8pm and it took the sun a whole two hours to slowly set, casting long shadows over the land. During this time an abundance of wildlife came out to play. I saw hordes a big flightless birds, which kept in groups of 5 to 10 birds which I assume was ostrich. They could really run, and because the wind hides the noise of the engine I managed to get very close before they saw me and legged it like the clappers. There were many packs of wild mustang, and lots of large eagles and vultures. A large ‘antelope type’ animal called a guanaco bounded across the track in front of me every few kilometers was the day's highlight. Sometimes there were groups of 20 or 30 leaping (1-2 meters high) and running together. I felt I was in the middle of a David Attenborough nature film.

I had not planned to ride after dark, but I realise I would probably not have seen any of these animals otherwise. During the first 200 kms on the track I had seen nothing. The last two hours into Perito Moreno concentration levels were high and the speed slowed. And when this dusty collection of buildings in the middle of nowhere arrived it was very welcome indeed. The owner of my hotel was in the middle of a drinking session with his mates, and it took some persuading not to join him. They were completely hanging, and it would have been a disaster if I stayed. I had once glass of whisky and made my excuses. For some reason I can not sleep, so I am keying in my days blog notes.

Tomorrow I will make it easier on myself and leave by 7am. I have about 350 kms of track to cover. I have to say leaving the Hotel Belgrano, where I write this (without any heating, and it’s choir of air knocking through the water pipes all night) as early as possible will not be a chore. Take note to anyone planning a family holiday along the route 40. Hotel options are limited!