Estancia Telkin – Gobernador Gregores 315 kms (Track)
Total Distance So Far: 3,061 kms
It would have been so easy to stay another day at the Telkn Ranch. In fact I think I was hanging about, even a little reluctant to get on the bike. That breakfast was good. It really needed a little snooze to do it justice.....
Leaving the ranch seeing the old rotting cars and trucks showed the pace of life here. When a truck breaks down it's just rolled into a field, or back of a shed and left to rot. There is no breakdown or tow-away service here. It's like a kind of 90 year history told through the old vehicles scattered about the place.
Butch Cassidy and The Sundance Kid lived on a ranch a few days (horse) ride north of here. Fleeing from the states, they lived there for 7 years as ranchers, until they decided to rob another bank in Rio Gallegos (where I'll be in a few days). They were then chased up into Bolivia to meet their maker. I bet very little has changed here since their time. No phone, internet, electricity (generator for a few hours each day only), no TV, water from well etc.
Alas, I got on the bike and got going. Five minutes later though the mind was on the road ahead. I had got used to difficulties of the track by now, although today the wind was a little more forceful. Today the wind was also creating little dust storms as well which turned the track into misty fog for a few hundred meters then it was clear again. The wind and road surface dictate your speed. If there is lots of loose stones, and gravel, plus strong wind you do 30 kph, if not you can get up to 60 kph. Trying to do anything else is futile. You are also constantly on the lookout for rocks in the track, or buried rocks just poking out from the surface, both of which could have you off if you hit them. Concentration levels are therefore high, so plenty of stops are needed. I was stopping every 30-40 kms. It is just better to go more slowly and reduce the pressure. That way you also get a chance to take in the scenery too away from the track.
There is no doubt it’s a challenge, but it is just as I hoped for. The route 40 is doable without being stupid, but enough of a challenge to test yourself. I really was in my element, loving every minute of the journey. The shear remoteness was hard to grasp. It reminded me of a mission with James the previous year in Mongolia. There are not many places I know where you can travel for hours without seeing any other travelers.
I passed 6 vehicles today. It’s incredible to be able to count the number of cars you pass over 10 hours, but it's quite a big occasion. It's always celebrated with waving and a lot of honking. The fact that vehicles do pass by also give a feeling of security should any problems occur also.
Talking of problems (luckily not mine) 40 kms outside of Gobernador Gregores, my base for the night, I see a white pick-up stranded on the side of the road. The driver had been there for about three hours waiting for a passing vehicle – which turned out to be me at about 9pm. He told me he got a puncture 50 kms back, but did not have a spare (plonker!). He therefore rode on the tyre until the rubber disintegrated. He then rode on the steel wheel until that became so badly deformed, causing the truck to get stuck when he hit a sandy patches. He decided he could go no further. He wanted me to take a message to someone in the next town. I offered him the sat phone, which saved the day, and after he arranged for help to come from the town he was all smiles again.
Coming into Gdor. Gregores, I passed a French chap Philippe with the ultimate ‘caravanette’. He was one of a bunch of trucks waiting for fuel to arrive at the gas station. He started at Ushuaia, and was on his was to Machu Pichu, through Bolivia. I said I would look out for him.
I got to the hotel and unloaded the bike. I put my head on the pillow. The next thing I remember is waking the next day in my riding gear!
No comments:
Post a Comment