Gobernador Gregores – El Calefate 414 kms (334 kms Track)
Total Distance So Far: 3,475 kms
My last day of off-road in Patagonia – I think? My estimate is that I have about 350 kms left in Tierra Del Fuego, then good roads for a while in Chile.
Speaking about routes with the owner of my hotel over breakfast he gives me a hot tip to save some time, by doing a 60 kms shortcut, going over a small hill, thus saving 100kms off the normal route 40 track. He assured me it was a very ‘doable’ 4x4 track. Sounded good to me, it was not on the GPS so he penned the rough route on my map. I set the GPS to ‘track record’ so I could always retrace my steps if it went to nowhere, or became too difficult. It was on old stoney washboarded track. Very teeth-chattering. It did certainly save 60 kms in time but by taking three hours to do it, cost me an extra hour overall, as I would have done the 100 kms in two. I reckon my speed dropped from 50 kph on the 40, to 20 kph on this stoney track. The views though were well worth it. Not surprisingly, nobody else decided to ‘save some time’.
Today’s bit of the route 40 was the toughest over the last few days. There was so much stony shale on the surface to begin with you felt for half the time you were just sliding. You could try and turn but nothing would happen. Then later the road became desert-like with fine sand, sand dunes, wind-rippled surface etc. When you stopped your feet just sank. It was impossible to find which bits were firm under the sand and which bit the wheels sunk into, as the whole road was sand and the high parts and the troughs of the road were all covered by sand to the same level. I tried to keep going as my concern the bike would sink and get stuck – and I’d be late for dinner! It lasted for about 60 kms, and then the harder stony surface re-appeared.
After seeing no other vehicles for a couple of hours, you’d thought it be safe to have a 'tom tit'. You guessed it, just as soon as I was in the crouching position with me pants around me ankles than a couple of Land Cruisers, full of tourists, come around the corner. What’s worse, the driver slowed right down and gave me the ‘are you ok’ thumbs up salute seeing as I had stopped. Once I’d replied with the same signal you could see everyone having a good giggle. Clearly they thought some ‘adventure biker’ in the middle of a No. 2 was far more interesting than the guanacos.
There was one section where I saw an armadillo in the distance so I crept up on the little blighter (downwind like Grizzly Adams!) as it was digging away for ants. I managed to get off a few good shots before it spotted me and whizzed off.
The track turned into road about 80 kms north of El Calefate and last hour became a easy cruise. It was funny to get a warning that 'Pavement was About to Start' after being on track for over 300 kms.
I was then treated to impressive views of Mount Fitzroy in the distance, which I was later told is a climbers favorite, and rated as one of the most difficult mountains in the world to climb, due to it’s challenging needle shapes all covered in a mushroom of snow at the top.
It was a pity to have finished the track section of the 40. Although I am now looking forwards to be able to concentrate on the scenery and visit some towns, and not the just track ahead. It's a recommended jolly to any adventure biking fans or 4x4 drivers though.
All that was left to do was find a good Parilla serving open-fired roasted lamb, and enjoy the evening in El Calefate. Both accomplished.
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