San Carlos de Bariloche – Almost Rest Day 52 kms
Total Distance So Far: 1,853 kms
I started the day still with the thoughts of the bike sliding around from yesterday so I set out to trim down the weight where possible. My travel books went under the knife first (literally) cutting out about half the pages of the areas I would not need. A few small other bits were ditched but not a lot. I had been advised not to ditch the tent (see separate post) so the overall weight is still going to go up with an extra 10 litres fuel and 4 litres of water. The hotel sorted me some scales and I actually weighed it all. The left pannier with clothes and my notebook was 12 kg, the right with a whole assortment of chargers, toiletries, cooking gear, torch, batteries, etc is 14 kg, top box with spare helmet, waterproofs and tools/spares is 10 kg, fuel & water 26 kg, tank bag with flask, cameras, video gear, sat phone and essential docs is 7 kg and the large water proof seat bag containing tent, sleeping bag, walking shoes, ‘cut-down’ guides, fleece and a rain coat (non-riding) is 19 kg. A total of 88kgs! Imagine the weight of 4 x 20 kg cases, no wonder the bike wallows a bit. Admittedly 26 kg of that is added fuel/water which will go after the Patagonian leg.
I’ve worked out after Patagonia I’ll ditch the spare fuel/water (24 kgs), the camping gear (14 kgs), plus other odds and sods that weigh about 5 kgs. A saving of 43 kgs. I’ll gain 50 kgs of ‘Lidy’ plus (? Kg) of her gear. What you lose on one hand you gain on the other - you just can’t win! Although she has a few plus’s. 1) she’s better company than a tent, and 2) you’ve not got to lug her about. On the other hand a tent won’t give you a hard time if it’s too cold, or have an extra beer!
I thought I’d check out Llao Llao today, which is supposed to be Argentina’s most famous hotel. It was a short drive along the southern shore of the lake. The first thing I noticed was the bike was like a pushbike without the luggage on. Light and effortless. On my way out of Bariloche I saw the most amazing car wash. Cars would drive into a lakeside parking lot where a chap would jump into the car and then park it by the edge of the water. The waves breaking on the shore next to the cars did the rest. After 5 mins he darted back trying to dodge the spray and brought the car back out. I thought about it for the bike – for at least five seconds.
It was a short and very scenic drive. Coming round a corner and seeing Llao Llao perched up on a hill overlooking the lake, the hotel certainly seemed to live up to its billing. Apparently Ernesto ‘Che’ Guevara ‘roughed’ it here whilst on his famous motorcycling trip around Argentina whilst discovering his country in the 1950’s.
I met a charming German lady called Lily. She was staying at the hotel and on a tour of South America, much like myself, but I think her’s was a bit more 5-star orientated than mine. Our lunch was delicious, I enjoyed locally caught salmon, followed by Patagonian wild boar in port and red berries. A glass or two of ‘Postales Del Fin Del Mundo’, a tasty oak aged Patagonian cabernet sauvignon finished it off nicely. This adventure bike lark is a pretty tough call I thought! Anyway it was soon time to leave Llao Llao so we bid each other ‘bon chance’ and I wobbled back to Bariloche.
On leaving the hotel a huge eagle landed in front of me, with a 1.2-1.4m wingspan. It allowed me to get a couple of shots before it flew off. If any 'birdy types' can identify it that would be good - Mr Shayler?
My thoughts soon returned the next day and driving further south. I am hoping to make 400 kms+ tomorrow. It has also proven impossible to find a hotel past El Bolson where I can stay.
That salmon look so goooddd. I'll carry 20kg with me ka.
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