Day 10 – 1st December . A Little Topple!

San Carlos de Bariloche – Esquel 303 kms

Total Distance So Far: 2,156 kms

The scenery riding through the mountains south of Bariloche was truly breathtaking. There were great big vistas of snow-capped mountains around every turn. I felt very lucky to be able to experience it.

Good job I was carrying extra fuel as my planned fuel stop100kms south of Bariloche had closed down, and it looked to me for quite a while. I have to say based on the number of other road users I am surprised that any of the stations are open here. Until I finish this leg I’ll top up everywhere I can. As I left Bariloche with 250 kms worth in the tank without my extra fuel I would have been 50 kms short and would have had needed to turn back.

Around one particular corner I saw a good photo op, so I pulled over. The ground seemed firm but 30 seconds after getting off the bike the side stand pierced through the top dry surface into soft earth below. And the bike toppled over. No damage done luckily but the bike was impossible to lift. No probs I thought as I had passed a bus about 10 kms earlier on some twisty mountain bends. Sure enough a few minutes later the bus comes into view. I wave him down. The driver slows down, takes one look at the bike on its side and speeds off again! A worrying sign. I thought there was an unwritten rule on the ‘Route 40’ that if you pass any traveler in need then you stop and offer them help. Clearly this chap looks after No. 1. I had to take off one side pannier, top box, plus seat and tank bags. Even then it took some effort and time to right. At least it’s doable on my own.

After taking my photo, and a warming cuppa I pushed on. I had hoped to cover 400+ kms today but the wind was just to blustery to travel at the speed required, in the time I had to do it. The time was shorter than I had hoped due also to a late start. So when I got to Esquel after 300kms I called it a day. The reason for the late start was I and the very helpful reception staff at the Nevada Hotel in Bariloche were trying to make contact with the sole hotel in Gdor. Costa, that had all of 4 rooms. We were unsuccessful, so Esquel seemed like a good bet. Just the thought of putting up the tent in this temperature and wind is enough to make me take the next flight home. The tent is for emergencies or rather unplanned stops only and not to be used unless there is no other habitable shelter about. Even the photo of some ones trailer-top –brick-base-home, is preferable. It did make me smile when I passed it. It even had a letter box spiked into the ground.

This means tomorrow the next hotel is in the east/west/north/south crossroads town of Perito Moreno some 530 kms from here. I’ve got 273kms to the first gas station at La Laurita, and 256 kms to the next one at Perito Moreno. I’ll set off early and hope for good weather and road conditions.